Paphos and Aphrodite

Some things just go together. Fish and chips, bread and butter, flotsam and jetsam. But one you might not have at the front of your mind is Paphos and Aphrodite. Paphos, the beautiful coastal city in Cyprus, and Aphrodite, the Ancient Greek goddess of love, beauty and pleasure. You might think them an odd pair. However, if you’re a connoisseur of the Classics or just a hobbyist historian, then you will likely know that there’s a lot more to the story.

The birth of Aphrodite was a violent affair, as Cronus, King of the Titans and father of the Olympians, castrated his own father Ouranos and cast his genitals into the sea. From the seafoam where they landed, Aphrodite emerged fully grown. This was said to have happened just off the coast of Paphos, so the ancient people built a temple there to mark the birthplace of the goddess. That temple became known as the Sanctuary of Aphrodite Paphia. Some of the archaeological finds date all the way back to 3 millennia ago, so we do know that the temple was there for centuries. Generations of worshippers came to visit Paphos and pray for beauty, pleasure and sometimes fertility. The Sanctuary of Aphrodite Paphia was the heart of Cyprus’ religious life until the 3rd century AD, when Roman Emperor Theodosius I outlawed pagan worship and demanded all their temples be shut down.

The ruins of the old temple now form part of the larger UNESCO World Heritage site of the Paphos Archaeological Park. As an important part of the religious history of Cyprus, much effort was put in to recover as much as possible from the ruins. We can thank the 19th century Danish architect Gustav Friedrich Hetsch for most of the unearthing of the walls, and his work was fundamental to later excavation at the site. The ancient town of Paphos grew around the temple and other temples, like the one dedicated to Artemis, were founded. In the times of the Romans the town grew even further, and we find villas and mosaics of local nobles who wanted a bit of fun in the sun.

The strong link that the city and its history have with Aphrodite have been a reason to attract a new type of traveller. Whether you believe in the divinity and power of the goddess of love or not, the whole site has a kind of spiritual power to it. The old temple has become popular with travellers who want to explore the link that Old Paphos has with ancient gods, and those who want to spend their holidays getting in touch with their own mind, body and soul.

The whole archaeological site is only a short drive from the modern city of Paphos, with a variety of fantastic museums to explore. Some of the artefacts have also been moved to the historical museums within modern Paphos. If a day exploring archaeological sites isn’t your cup of tea but seeing artifacts in museums is, then it might be best to stay within the city. The site at Old Paphos is a full day adventure, with the ancient sites just next to the Medieval castle for visitors to explore. You can experience the history of Cyprus over the centuries through the sites and exhibits, from the ancient Greeks, through the Romans, the Crusades and the empires that followed. The cult of Aphrodite might not be around anymore, and their temple is now ruinous, but the spirit of love and the ideal of beauty are very much still alive in the sites of Old Paphos.